A Trip to Edinburgh & Glasgow, and Scottish Art

The View of the Firth of Forth from Arthur's Seat, Edinburgh

Introduction and Arthur's Seat

We have just returned from a well-deserved few days' break in Scotland, visiting both Edinburgh and Glasgow. And when I say break, it wasn't a rest, as our minimum step count on any of the days there was 20,000, and that was the day we went up Arthur's Seat, an ancient, extinct volcano and the main peak of the hills forming Holyrood Park in the centre of Edinburgh. There's a great view from there, you can see a fabulous panoramic view of Edinburgh, the Firth of Forth and the Forth Bridge. Our step count may have been lower, but the floors climbed were around 40! There is an easier way up, but we didn't take it, so we did a good amount of scrambling and climbing to get up there.

From the top, you can see a little Island in the middle of the Firth of Forth, which I later found out is called Inchkeith, an uninhabited, privately owned island which is steeped in a rich, dark history. It has served as a medieval quarantine zone, the site of a bizarre King James IV language experiment in 1493 (where two young children were isolated on the island with a deaf/mute woman to see if their language developed), and an extensive World War I and II military fortress.

The Charles Rennie Mackintosh Tea Rooms

During the rest of our trip, we visited the National Galleries of Scotland, the National Museum of Scotland, and the City Art Centre in Edinburgh. In Glasgow, we went to the Charles Rennie Mackintosh Tea Rooms for a tour and a spot of lunch, and then onto the Kelvingrove Art Gallery.

Scottish Art

Scottish art, with its unique blend of local tradition and European influence, offers a fascinating window into the nation’s evolving identity. From medieval religious painting to contemporary conceptual works, the story of Scottish art is one of innovation and resilience. These galleries in Edinburgh and Glasgow house masterpieces that chart the rich and varied course of artistic expression in Scotland.

Robert Burns - The Hunt (c.1926) & EA Hornel & George Henry - The Druids (1890)

Historical Beginnings and Early Influences

The earliest forms of Scottish art can be traced to the Neolithic and Bronze Ages, with standing stones, carved symbols, and intricate metalwork demonstrating a sophisticated sense of design. However, it is from the medieval period onwards that painting and sculpture began to flourish. The influence of the Catholic Church is evident in the surviving religious artworks, such as illuminated manuscripts and altar pieces. The Reformation in the 16th century significantly reduced the production of religious art, but it also gave rise to portraiture as a dominant genre.

The Enlightenment and Romanticism

The Scottish Enlightenment in the 18th century fostered a climate of artistic growth. Artists like Allan Ramsay, whose elegant portraits of Enlightenment figures such as David Hume and his own father, the poet Allan Ramsay, capture the spirit of the era. Ramsay’s refined style and skillful use of light and colour had a lasting impact on British portraiture. His works, alongside those of Sir Henry Raeburn, another master portraitist, are significant features of the National Gallery of Scotland. Raeburn’s ‘The Reverend Robert Walker Skating on Duddingston Loch’ (commonly known as ‘The Skating Minister’) is one of Scotland’s most iconic paintings, combining a lively sense of movement with a subtle, almost poetic, depiction of the Scottish landscape.

Francis Cadell - Lady in Black & Allan Ramsay - Henrietta Diana

The Nineteenth Century: Landscape and National Identity

The 19th century saw a surge in landscape painting, reflecting both the beauty and the drama of the Scottish countryside. Artists such as Horatio McCulloch and Alexander Nasmyth depicted the Highlands and Lowlands in ways that celebrated Scotland’s natural grandeur and contributed to the burgeoning sense of national identity. MacTaggart's seascapes and genre work show both the Scottish scenery and its way of life.

The Glasgow Boys

This period also saw the rise of the Glasgow School, a group of artists and designers who contributed to the wider European Art Nouveau movement. Notable figures included Charles Rennie Mackintosh and his wife, Margaret Macdonald Mackintosh, whose architectural, design, and artistic innovations had a transformative effect on both Scottish and international art. The Mackintosh tea rooms we visited in Glasgow feature Charles Rennie's architecture and design together with Margaret's beautiful artwork. The galleries we visited feature works by the Glasgow Boys, such as Sir James Guthrie, Sir John Lavery, George Henry and E.A. Walton, who pioneered a more naturalistic, plein air approach to painting, breaking with academic conventions and embracing the vivid colours and loose brushwork seen in French Impressionism.

Samuel Peploe - Tulips - The Blue Jug (1919) & George Henry - Geisha Girl (1894)

Twentieth Century

The 20th century brought a new wave of experimentation and diversity to Scottish art. The Colourists, Samuel Peploe, Francis Cadell, George Leslie Hunter, and John Duncan Fergusson, were particularly influential, infusing their paintings with bold hues and dynamic compositions inspired by French Post-Impressionism. Works by Peploe and Cadell, with their vibrant still lifes and landscapes, are standout pieces in the National Gallery of Scotland.

Conclusion

Scottish art is a fascinating tapestry woven from centuries of cultural, political, and social change. The galleries of Edinburgh, Glasgow, and other Scottish institutions offer visitors a comprehensive journey through the nation’s artistic achievements. From the luminous portraits of Raeburn and Ramsay to the bold experiments of the Colourists and the innovations of present-day artists, Scottish art continues to inspire, challenge, and captivate, helping to make Scotland a fantastic place to visit.


Pictures to Download

Charles Rennie Mackintosh Public Domain Images to Download | Digital Download - 126 images

Charles Rennie Mackintosh 126 High Resolution Images

Samuel Peploe Public Domain Images | Digital Download - 20 images

Samuel Peploe 20 High Resolution Images

Margaret Macdonald Mackintosh Public Domain Paintings | Digital Download - 16 images

Margaret Macdonald Mackintosh 16 High Resolution Images

Henry Raeburn Public Domain Images | Digital Download - 60 images

Henry Raeburn 60 High Resolution Images

Sir John Lavery Public Domain Images | Digital Download - 41 images

Sir John Lavery 41 High Resolution Images

Allan Ramsay Public Domain Images | Digital Download - 50 images

Allan Ramsay 50 High Resolution Images

Francis Cadell Public Domain Images | Digital Download - 18 images

Francis Cadell 18 High Resolution Images

Digital Download - 1 image

Burns, Robert (1869-1941) - The Hunt c.1926

Digital Download - 1 image

Henry, George (1858-1943) & Hornel, E.A. (1864-1933) - The Druids 1890

Digital Download - 1 image

Henry, George (1858-1943) - Geisha Girl 1894

Digital Download - 1 image

Guthrie, James (1859-1930) - Old Willie, a Village Worthy 1886

Digital Download - 1 image

MacTaggart, William (1835-1910) - The Storm 1890

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